An ephemeral restaurant to discover in Gruyère

Spread the love

They are, in a way, water and fire. Zenitude meets exuberance. One indulges in yoga and meditation, the other would be rather hyperactive, not to say volcanic. Nicolas Darnauguilhem and Rafael Rodriguez, however, have a lot in common. A cousin vision of cooking, with sustainability as the watchword, a philosophy favoring the local and small producers, a permaculture vegetable garden, the taste of wild picking and ephemeral beauty, the idea that cooking should be ‘to be, more than ever, the reflection of a terroir.

They are also two of the most creative chefs on the current Romand scene and will share the piano, this Wednesday 14, for a promising alpine restaurant. (In all legality, it goes without saying, we are talking about a hotel …)

We got to know Nicolas to Neptune, then at Tabs, in Geneva and he recently took over the mythical Pint of Mossettes, in Cerniat (FR), or more precisely is in full search to revive its cuisine in this new setting, as soon as circumstances allow …

For his part, Rafael, the very inspired and green chef of the Auberge de Montheron Abbey, passed in particular by El Celler by the Roca brothers in Girona – incidentally voted best restaurant in the world 2013 and 2015 – likes to let themed menus dictate by the surrounding forest and its Jorat natural park.

Bistronomic and local

Responsible for the restoration of Hôtel Cailler, in Charmey (FR) with Joselina Carvalheiro, Jean-Marc Dedeyne comes from the universe of natural wines. “We wanted to take advantage of the temporary closure of the hotel, while it was being renovated, to offer customers something else.” The Le Sapin residence, which belongs to the hotel complex, lent itself to this, with its fifteen tables and open kitchen. The residents of the hotel are thus offered bistronomic and local cuisine, under the Alpestre brand.

But Jean-Marc dreamed of events to celebrate the new generation in the manner of the Food or Omnivore festival. Thus was born Poïèsis – in other words “creation”, in ancient Greek – in the manner of an off, to invite chefs to introduce themselves, make new voices heard, share their vision of responsible and committed gastronomy, in tune with the times.

On the program for this Wednesday (last places to catch!), A six-part menu for which the two cooks went to pick up together, meet local producers and choose their ingredients. Carte blanche for a surprise menu, which also includes a solidarity component: part of the proceeds will be donated to the project or to the NGO designated by the chefs.


Ephemeral Alpine restaurant, East area of ​​the Le Sapin residence, rue du Center 25, Charmey (FR), tel. 026 927 23 23, 9 am-6pm; surprise menu package excluding drinks and double room with breakfast: 490 fr. for two. Find all the articles in the “One day, an idea“.

newsoceon.com